Arrival in Chania was breathtaking. Flying over Cretan olive orchards, pastures full of salt and pepper goats, Crete is surreal. Part of it reminds me of a bombed out World War Two fortification, and in fact, some of it is. The political history is pretty juicy.
The Minoan kingdom was the first known settlement which was displaced by the Byzantine Empire. It was a fortified Byzantine harbor until the Fourth Crusade, at which time it became the dominion of Venetian Lords. The Venetian architecture is the predominant charm of Chania, especially in the old harbor. It remained a Venetian town until a legendary scallywag, the pirate Barbarossa, AKA Red Beard, a Turkish pillaging machine, razed and looted the towns all across Crete. This blow accompanied with the surge of Ottoman strength eventually landed Crete and its many Byzantine and Venetian fortifications a key role in the Sultan’s Mediterranean Empire. The Ottomans bartered with the Egyptians in Cairo for assistance against the heavy Cretan guerilla resistance and Egyptian forces were what remained in power over Crete in the end. The heavy Egyptian taxes made their rule unstable and mainland Greeks saw an opportunity to aid the Cretans in an overthrow, and subsequently annexed them as a part of Greece. It was bombed by Nazis and used in the African front as an Axis outpost. Settling now under the blue and white flag of Ελλαδα, Cretans are only loyal to Crete.
They show their Cretan individuality with a curious blend of specialty exports. As far as I can tell, Crete is the place to buy leather, awesome custom knives, fur, amber beads that the men constantly clack together as they walk, Raki (Cretan grain alcohol; I have not drank any yet but I am sure I will and it will require an entire post), and of course, olives. Here is a picture of my Cretan dagger.
The Minoan kingdom was the first known settlement which was displaced by the Byzantine Empire. It was a fortified Byzantine harbor until the Fourth Crusade, at which time it became the dominion of Venetian Lords. The Venetian architecture is the predominant charm of Chania, especially in the old harbor. It remained a Venetian town until a legendary scallywag, the pirate Barbarossa, AKA Red Beard, a Turkish pillaging machine, razed and looted the towns all across Crete. This blow accompanied with the surge of Ottoman strength eventually landed Crete and its many Byzantine and Venetian fortifications a key role in the Sultan’s Mediterranean Empire. The Ottomans bartered with the Egyptians in Cairo for assistance against the heavy Cretan guerilla resistance and Egyptian forces were what remained in power over Crete in the end. The heavy Egyptian taxes made their rule unstable and mainland Greeks saw an opportunity to aid the Cretans in an overthrow, and subsequently annexed them as a part of Greece. It was bombed by Nazis and used in the African front as an Axis outpost. Settling now under the blue and white flag of Ελλαδα, Cretans are only loyal to Crete.
They show their Cretan individuality with a curious blend of specialty exports. As far as I can tell, Crete is the place to buy leather, awesome custom knives, fur, amber beads that the men constantly clack together as they walk, Raki (Cretan grain alcohol; I have not drank any yet but I am sure I will and it will require an entire post), and of course, olives. Here is a picture of my Cretan dagger.
I nicknamed it Saghapo, which means "I love you" in Greek.
There are many varieties, the age old traditional ones being made of two pieces of sheep bone, pricier ones made of goat horns, and wooden handled ones. I pass about three knife shops a day. My favorite part about it is that I actually have many chances to use it. The fresh vegetable markets are everywhere and we have been doing a lot of home cooking. There are also open air fish markets that smell like the bottom of the briny sea. These purchases require lots of slicing and cutting at the wriggling raw flesh of fish I couldn’t even name in English. Cephalopods (Octopuses, squid and cuttlefish) also have a large consumer base.
We have had a good time exploring for a few days, checking out the old town and harbor, and are ready for our course to begin. I have my sight set on a day in the Lefka Ori (White Mountains) and expect to be visiting some Minoan ruins shortly.
All is well on the eastern front. Kalispera!
There are many varieties, the age old traditional ones being made of two pieces of sheep bone, pricier ones made of goat horns, and wooden handled ones. I pass about three knife shops a day. My favorite part about it is that I actually have many chances to use it. The fresh vegetable markets are everywhere and we have been doing a lot of home cooking. There are also open air fish markets that smell like the bottom of the briny sea. These purchases require lots of slicing and cutting at the wriggling raw flesh of fish I couldn’t even name in English. Cephalopods (Octopuses, squid and cuttlefish) also have a large consumer base.
We have had a good time exploring for a few days, checking out the old town and harbor, and are ready for our course to begin. I have my sight set on a day in the Lefka Ori (White Mountains) and expect to be visiting some Minoan ruins shortly.
All is well on the eastern front. Kalispera!
